Here we had to design a monochromatic look, This means different shades of one colour. For this particular look, I have mixed emotions, although I am ever all happy with the result, this blending and general contouring of the face (which I do feel I have improved on since my first attempt at contouring) I just don't feel that the look particularly screams "monochromatic" and because of this I am not happy with it at all. Also a note to consider, is that when contouring the nose, I shouldn't take it over the nostrils as this creates a dirty effect when looking from a face on view.
For my first ever face chart I am really proud of myself. The concept behind a face chart is to create concepts and show what you are thinking to create on the model on paper first. The idea is to use the same make up you wish to use in reality, I found this quite a challenge, I have never used make-up to draw with before and at first I didn't really know how to start, but by the end I found that I actually fine it easier to draw with make-up then I do with normal drawing equipment, I just love how the colours blend and you do make a mistake, its no big deal as they can easily be rubbed away with a normal eraser as long as you are using powders. I found that using oil based products on face charts is a tricky business and is best if you can represent the colour in a different method. I find watercolour pencils a good alternative for the stronger bolder colours that are harder to stick to the paper.
The Westmore family are probably one of the most influential people of the hair and make up industry. nearly ll members and generations.
It all started with George Westmore, opening his first hairdressing salon after hos wife died. He them moved to to Los Angeles in 1917, where he soon got a job at the Selig Studio and established the first studio makeup department in history. a few months later he moved to Triangle Studios, overseeing the makeup for stars as Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Lillian and Dorothy Gish, Billie Burke, Norma Talmadge, and Theda Bara.
Sadly during the 1920s, his work started to be overpowered by his sons, and after a second unsuccessful marriage committed suicide in 1931.
His sons however, continued his legacy and only contributed to the family reputation, becoming heads of major makeup studios in Hollywood. And working some of the most famous actors in Hollywood.
Even some third generation Westmores became well-known in the makeup industry, not only in dramatic based makeup, but also in medically helpful makeup for victims of facial burns and diseases. References: ‘Westmore Family (American family)’ (no date) Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica. Available at: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/641129/Westmore-Family
Over the years Queen Elizabeth I has been portrayed by many different faces throughout film and television. Here are just a few examples.
Elisabeth (1998) and Elizabeth, the golden age. (2007) Film.
"This film details the ascension to the throne and the early reign of Queen Elizabeth the First, as played by Cate Blanchett. The main focus is the endless attempts by her council to marry her off, the Catholic hatred of her and her romance with Lord Robert Dudley." (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0127536/)
Elizabeth - Cate Blanchett.
Hair Designer and Make up Designer - Jenny Shircore.
Hair stylists and Make up Artists - Anita Burger, Miranda Davidson, Karen Ferguson, Christine Greenwood, Lisa Pickering, Ivana Primorac, Christine Whitney.
Directed by - Shekhar Kapur.
"A mature Queen Elizabeth endures multiple crises late in her reign including court intrigues, an assassination plot, the Spanish Armada, and romantic disappointments."(http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0414055/)
Elizabeth - Cate Blanchett.
Hair Designer and Make up Designer - Jenny Shircore.
Hair Stylists and Make up Artists - Jon Henry Gordon-hair, Joe Hopker-make up, Susan Howard-make up, Gemma Waugh, Morag Ross (Cate Blanchett's hair and make up).
Directed by - Shekhar Kapur.
Comparing to two films, I feel it is easy to see a difference in the styling of Elizabeth. the first film is all about Elizabeth finding herself and becoming the Queen that she is known for today, however the second film is all about her maintaining the image she has created for herself.
The first thing that caught my attention where contrast between the covers of the films.
Instantly I made the connection with the coronation portrait of Elizabeth for the first film; her long flowing golden hair, her yellow dress and angelic features. However in the second I instantly seemed to associate it with Joan of Arc. this is interesting as throughout the film she is hardly, if ever seen with her hair down and wore ornate wigs apart from when going to bed or having a bath as she cut it all off in the first film. I feel this is a clever manipulation to truly show that Elizabeth is a force to be reckoned with.
Whilst researching these films I found this interview which I found incredibly insightful: "How did Elizabethan women have achieve their pale skin with the make-up available at the time? Elizabeth I, who was emulated by her people, wore white make-up. The alabaster coloured skin was a sign of wealth and considered very beautiful. In fact, it covered signs of disease, pockmarks, and the manifestations of ageing skin. In order to achieve this look, women used a foundation colour made from lead and vinegar. It was poisonous and eventually more harmful than help to the skin. After the base colour, raw egg white was often applied as a 'glaze'! The cheeks and lips were rouged with cochineal, applied with pads of animal hide and rabbit's foot brushes. It was fashionable to severely pluck the eyebrows and also the front hairline; with all shades of red hair being immensely popular. How long does it take to create the look of Elizabeth's character? It took three hours every day to complete the hair, make up and wardrobe for the character of Elizabeth; with the wigs already prepped and ready to go on the head. Do you work closely with wardrobe on the make-up look? Alex Byrne is an inspirational costume designer and artist and I went to all the costume fittings to work out the wig styles in tandem with her. Everything has to work together, and Alex would give me the jewels to dress into the wigs to match the costumes. The balance of the size of the wigs and the shade of red hair was important for each different costume. I used 16 wigs in total... How do you keep the make-up looking consistent while filming? All the different looks and scenes are photographed with a digital camera, and documented. Sometimes we will shoot the beginning of a scene on one day, and finish the same scene 6 weeks later! What tips and tricks can you share for film set makeup? Film make-up has to last a 16-hour day in front of the cameras. Good skin is the basis of a good make-up. I used SKII products, on the Elizabeth character, and MAC's Prep and Prime as a base for the foundation. This means an easier, smoother foundation application, and longer-lasting make-up. Occasional mists of Evian hydrate the make-up and the skin throughout the day and plenty of lip balm and 'Refresh' eye drops keep the features fresh. What products did you use to create the different looks in the film? To create Elizabeth's white make-up, I prepped the character's skin with MAC Prep and Prime. I then applied Full Coverage Foundation in NW15, and stippled over it with Studio Fix powder foundation. I powdered initially with Shu Uemura loose powder in colorless matte and added MAC loose powder in Porcelaine for a lighter effect, or La Prairie translucent No.1 to soften the tone and the skin texture. I used a mixture of Pinch O' Peach and Fleur Power powder blushes on the cheeks and over the sockets of the eyes. The eyebrows and lashes I bleached almost white, so I defined gently under the eyes with 'Strada' powder colour. For the lips I used a mixture of Lorac's lip tint in Red-Brown, and MAC's crme stick liner in Red Enriched and Portside gently rubbed onto the lips after lipbalm. Interview with Alexandra Byrne" (http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_elizabeth2.shtml)
The Virgin Queen (2005) TV series.
"The Virgin Queen explores the full sweep of Elizabeth's life: from her days of fear as a potential victim of her sister's terror; through her great love affair with Robert Dudley; into her years of triumph over the Armada; and finally her old age and her last, enigmatic relationship with her young protégé, the Earl of Essex." (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0481459/)
Elizabeth - Anne-Marie Duff.
Directed by - Coky Giedroyc, Paula Milne.
Daily makeup artist - Sjaan Gillings .
Makeup artist - Caroline Greenough.
Special effects teeth - Chris Lyons.
Special makeup effects artist - Josh Weston.
Again the transition from a girl to a woman is very apparent in the styling of this film.
Elizabeth R (1971) TV series.
Elizabeth - Glenda Jackson.
Costume Designer - Elizabeth Waller.
Makeup Artist - Dawn Alcock, Sandra Sheperd.
"When Elizabeth Tudor comes to the throne, her (male) advisers know she has to marry. Doesn't she? Thus starts a decades-long political/ matrimonial game, during an age of high passions and high achievement." (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066652/)
Out of all the portrayals I have looked at, I really feel that this series really shows the greatest progression with the styling and make up of her character as she slowly becomes fail and weak throughout the series.
As you can see in the photos above, there is no sympathy involved in the application of Elizabeths make up to really show her hagged ageing self. For me, this shows the strongest journey and the make up artists were very brave to create such a bold statement, that in fact the truth of it was quite ugly in contrast to the typical portrayal of the beautiful Virgin Queen.
Perhaps the most colourful Tudor portrait, full of inventive iconography. Elizabeths holds a rainbow with the inscription "Non sine sole iris", "No rainbow without the sun", reminding viewers only the Queen's wisdom can ensure peace and prosperity.
Analysing this portrait, I found that it is overflowing with symbolism and mean which at first glance can be easily overlooked! As the quate states, Elizabeth is holding a rainbow, symbolising the queens benefit for the people, almost a subliminal message of promis of a better world and that she herself is the only one to provide such goods. Not only does Elizabeth hold this rainbow but her gown is embroidered all over in eyes and ears quite obviously to indicate that the queen sees all and hears all, there is no hinding from her Majesty. As always elizabeth is decorated form head to tow in pearls, a very recurrent theme within her portraits, the pearls represent her purity and virginity, forever immortalising the name virgin queen and her sacrid vow to be married to England!
I chose this photo for a modern take on portraiture as I felt it has quite a lot of symbolism within the photograph! In this photo of Victoria, her jewellery is quite obviously on display in the for front of the photo, there Doesn't appear to be any particular reason for it to be there other than to show off stature and wealth. She is sat upon a desk on the phone with a strong confidence about her, an obvious sense of control comes from her, but despite all this still manages to be alluring.
For me the photo is just screaming out saying yes I am a woman, I am sexy, I know it and you will do as I say!
After analysing these two images it was my turn to create my own! My task was to create a portrait of myself how I wish to be perceived. Once we had our photo we had to present it to the class and it was thire task to analyse and see if they could realise what I was trying to portray within my photo.
In my portrait I wanted to show some of my backgrownd; my dad is French but I have been brought up in England, I wanted the photo to feel safe and comfortable, I've just moved to Southampton 100s of miles away from home but I've never felt more at home since lining here! I wanted the photo to feel homely content and happy, I also wanted a sense of sophistication within the photo, I feel because of my blue hair I can easily be judged as a completely different type of person, put into a category before I even open my mouth, it's too easy to categorise people.
In the seminar I was genuinely shocked as to how accurate some of the analysis people gave of my portrait due to their accuracy, which I can only take positively and presume I succeeded to portray myself how I wish to be seen.
In the Elizabethan era, beauty was very much dominated by class and wealth. The pale faced look that is so largely associated with the Elizabethans was quite literally only a statement of rank which became associated with beauty. The idea behind the concept was that the lower class population worked the land and therefore would gain a tan, making the pale complexion and sign of wealth and nobility. Elizabeth herself became an idle for every woman to aspire to be. Her unsettling white face was enhanced by a makeup made from white led and vinegar called ceruse which was toxic and caused many health problems and skin conditions. This was the preferred method of the wealthier woman, the pale foundation would be applied all over the face and bosom area. This method was first recorded in 1519 in Horman’s “Valguria puerorum” and throughout Elizabeth’s reign the method became an essential part of the fashionable woman’s daily routine.
"This painting is known as 'The Coronation portrait', and shows the Queen crowned, wearing the cloth of gold which she wore at her coronation on 15 January 1559, which had previously been worn by Mary I. She holds the orb and sceptre, symbols of her authority. The portrait appears to have been painted in about 1600, and is probably a copy of a lost original of c.1559."
In this portrait of Elizabeth on her coronation, she is from the word go creating a striking visual impression of herself that would capture her people in a way like no other.
Her perfect complexion, her firey hair and angelic expression eradicated any unwanted association from her mother Anne Boleyn, who was accused of witch craft and was thought in that time that witches where ugly and/or deformed, Also carrying the genes of her father "Good King Henry" in her golden-red hair.
Tudor Cosmetics.
"Although time and expensive ingredients were lavished on appearances, beauty in the 17th century was seen as fleeting. Poor health and hygiene, with the use of poisonous materials meant a woman was thought to be 'past her prime at 20, decayed at four and 20, and old and insufferable at 30.'" (http://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house/history/fact-files/beauty-in-the-17th-century)
Make up.
during the Tudor era, it was considered whorish to hide ones face behind a mask of make up, it was only throughout Elizabeth's reign that make up became acceptable and even desired. In fact it became a important part of establishing status.
As can be seen in the portraits below, through out Elizabeth's reign, her style became more and more elaborate. She had seen the effect her beauty had upon the nation and she used this to her advantage, captivating and inspiring the nation.
"This painting is the finest and most compelling portrait of Elizabeth I before her accession. It conveys her beauty, dignity, gentleness and learning. Although it was probably painted for her father, Henry VIII, it is first recorded in the collection of her half-brother, Edward VI, where it is described as ‘the picture of the Ladye Elizabeth her grace with a booke in her hande her gowne like crymsen clothe’." (http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/404444/elizabeth-i-when-a-princess)
"This portrait was painted to commemorate the most famous conflict of Elizabeth's reign, the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588. It was originally of the same horizontal format as two other known versions of this painting. Here we can see the scenes behind the Queen showing, on the left, the English fire ships setting out in clear, calm weather and on the right the Spanish fleet being wrecked off the dark, rocky coast of Scotland or Ireland. Elizabeth's hand rests on a globe, her fingers over the Americas, indicating England's dominion of the seas and expansion into the New World." (http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02077/Queen-Elizabeth-I)
Most make up during this era was used in theatrical performances, however soon was adapted into everyday life. The main aim was to replicate the pale face of her majesty, even though it caused many health risks.
The pale complexion was reached by making a cream with powdered white chalk or white lead (it was the lead that was toxic), then mixed with white of egg and vinegar. This created a smooth shiny finish, similar to that of porcelain.
As a child, Elizabeth suffered, yet survived a bout of smallpox, which left her skin scared and uneven, This mixture would fill any imperfections leaving her skin flawless, reasserting her love affair with make up.
Rouge was added to the cheeks using cerise powder, which again was made from white lead but with red colouring added or stains made from crushed fruits and berries, these juice would also be used to tint the lips.
Ironically the lead mixture that Elizabeth used to cover her scares ate away at her skin leaving it more scared for only more ceruse to be applied.
Reference: Beauty and cosmetics 1550-1950. Sarah Jane Downing. page 11-17
During induction week we all had to take part in this "bag head" challenge. It was nothing serious, just an activity to get our creative minds working. it was a good chance to go get to know the rest of your class mates as well as having a but of fun.
We had to create a mask of ourselves, how we see ourselves in 5 years time, however I feel I was a bit unimaginative with my bag and wish I had been a bit more bold with my ideas as I feel there is nothing really to it otherwise... Although I do sort of like it anyway
We were also given the task of going out into a public place and taking a selfie with the bag on. This puts us in an uncomfortable situation, who is going to feel 100% comfortable walking round town with a bag on their head? I know I wouldn't! This task puts in context how uncomfortable our models could be, we are painting them up, essentially putting a mask on them and sending them out into the the public! I feel this was an important lesson to be learnt, as taking into consideration how our models are feeling is very important and treating them right may completely change the way the co-operate with you on set. Illamasqua Day!
During induction week we had a visit from the Illamasqua team: Spob O'Brien-Head of Professional Development, Charlotte Savoury-Key MUA and International Brand Ambassador and Josephine O'Brien-Events Manager who gave a talk and a live demonstration which was very useful and inspirational.
As they worked on their model, they talked through which products they were using, which brush and what technique, they spoke about why they did the things they did; for example: they used a hilighter through the the entire central part of the face. This was because this look was designed for a catwalk, and on the catwalk the lights naturally shine from this angle and the most flattering way is to enhance what is naturally there rather than trying to change something that isn't going to work. this way you know what you are working to; once the model goes onto the catwalk with all the lights the makeup isn't going to change drastically and look completely different.
Hero Products!
We were also set the task during induction week to go out and about is Southampton to find locations that we think would be useful to us throughout the next year, and gather information about "Hero Products" of the make up industry, to then wrap things up with a selfie on location.
I completed this task with one of my friends off the course Chelsea Lake, we had a lot of fun exploring Southampton and finding out about the hero products.
Hero Products
Bobbi Brown- Shimmer brick
- Gel eyeliner (Bobbi Brown were the first to bring an eyeliner out!)
Over thew summer we were set a task to create a moodboard of where we wanted or saw ourselves to be in 5 years time, and this is what i created:
I tried to demonstrate in my moodboard my personality as well as showing things I am passionate about and careers I would possibly like to achieve, I am a strong believer of "going where the wind takes me" and believe that nothing is set in stone, so for me to exactly know exactly where I want to be in 5 years times is quite an ask for me...
I have dreams and ideals but I do not hold myself down to fancies and pass up opportunities that could change my life and take me down a whole new route!
at the moment I am 21 years old and Just starting 3 years of Makeup Design and Hair at uni, I chose this course because this area of work has always been my passion. As a career I would love to either work on film sets with high fanticy themes, or work within high fashion photography and anent garde photo shoots.
it has always been my dream, even as a child, to one day live in France. Now as an adult, living in Paris would be an ideal place to peruse my dream life.
In 5 years time I would be 26 years old nearly 27 as my birthday is in January, and I have always thought that by the time I am 30 I would like to be settled with my own family, so I threw in some photos of families, a home I could call my own and a dog! I absolutely love the breed Japanese Akita, so obviously there are a couple of photos of them on there.
The question mark represents possibility! anything can happen in life and that is the beauty of it! the photos are in black and white and they are the "unknown".
Now lets see where life takes me!!
The Great Gatsby.
This is a period romance set in the 1920’s about a man living the high life to win over the love of his life.
This film is extremely stylised, the overall look has an almost nightmarish feel to it. Obviously as the film is set in the 1920’s the fashion and make up are all in keeping to that era. Baz Luhrmann created a collaboration with Prada to design the extravagant costumes for the film.
For me I would find it impossible to choose a single piece of clothing or accessory that defines the film, there isn't one part of this film that hasn't been though about in great detail. Every last sequin and ruffle makes it all the more richer and luxurious. The entirety of this film is a style sensation, a lavish shower of everything extravagant and wonderful.
When you watch this film you do feel transported in time, but at the same time you feel as though you are watching some sort of psychedelic trip whilst the film still manages to feel like a 100% authentic 1920’s experience.
The make up in this film of this film was Maurizio Silvi. He has managed to recreate that iconic porcelain look associated with the 20’s but at this same time managed to throw in some bolder more extravagant colours that wouldn't necessarily be associated with the times but made it work in a way that it is still tasteful but creates a more hyped feel for the film.
Over all this film is just beautify to watch, everything flows so beautifully together, a clash of the extravagantly rich and the devastatingly poor.
True Romance.
This film was written but Quentin Tarantino and directed by Tony Scott. It’s a love story taken over by a secondary plot involving drug theft, chase and murder.
The main characters are Clarence and Alabama, the film is very centered around these two characters and heavily based on the style at the time, the 90’s
At the start of the film Alabama is a call girl and this is defiantly reflected in her fashion. Her outfits consist of a lot of red and leopard print, only adding to that “trashy” feel. Her clothing is much more revealing at the beginning only enhancing her character. As the film progresses her clothing becomes floaty and more pastel colours are being used, this starts to make the transition in your brain from call girl to wife, whilst at the same never losing her true identity, by the viewer being subtly reminded by her bright red lipstick and peroxide blonde hair. Also a similar transition happens with Clarence, at the start of the film, he is portrayed as an introverted character living a boring life with nothing exciting ever happening, his clothing reflects this and also starts to take on a bolder brighter fashion sense towards the end of the film as his confidence grows and his life gets more exciting.
I would defiantly depict Alabama as a style icon, as her fashion was a summary of the 90’s and so much inspiration has been drawn from this era.
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