The Elizabethan concept of beauty.
In the Elizabethan era, beauty was very much dominated by class and wealth. The pale faced look that is so largely associated with the Elizabethans was quite literally only a statement of rank which became associated with beauty. The idea behind the concept was that the lower class population worked the land and therefore would gain a tan, making the pale complexion and sign of wealth and nobility. Elizabeth herself became an idle for every woman to aspire to be. Her unsettling white face was enhanced by a makeup made from white led and vinegar called ceruse which was toxic and caused many health problems and skin conditions. This was the preferred method of the wealthier woman, the pale foundation would be applied all over the face and bosom area. This method was first recorded in 1519 in Horman’s “Valguria puerorum” and throughout Elizabeth’s reign the method became an essential part of the fashionable woman’s daily routine.
"This painting is known as 'The Coronation portrait', and shows the Queen crowned, wearing the cloth of gold which she wore at her coronation on 15 January 1559, which had previously been worn by Mary I. She holds the orb and sceptre, symbols of her authority. The portrait appears to have been painted in about 1600, and is probably a copy of a lost original of c.1559."
In this portrait of Elizabeth on her coronation, she is from the word go creating a striking visual impression of herself that would capture her people in a way like no other.
Her perfect complexion, her firey hair and angelic expression eradicated any unwanted association from her mother Anne Boleyn, who was accused of witch craft and was thought in that time that witches where ugly and/or deformed, Also carrying the genes of her father "Good King Henry" in her golden-red hair.
Tudor Cosmetics.
"Although time and expensive ingredients were lavished on appearances, beauty in the 17th century was seen as fleeting. Poor health and hygiene, with the use of poisonous materials meant a woman was thought to be 'past her prime at 20, decayed at four and 20, and old and insufferable at 30.'" (http://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house/history/fact-files/beauty-in-the-17th-century)
Make up.
during the Tudor era, it was considered whorish to hide ones face behind a mask of make up, it was only throughout Elizabeth's reign that make up became acceptable and even desired. In fact it became a important part of establishing status.
As can be seen in the portraits below, through out Elizabeth's reign, her style became more and more elaborate. She had seen the effect her beauty had upon the nation and she used this to her advantage, captivating and inspiring the nation.
"This painting is the finest and most compelling portrait of Elizabeth I before her accession. It conveys her beauty, dignity, gentleness and learning. Although it was probably painted for her father, Henry VIII, it is first recorded in the collection of her half-brother, Edward VI, where it is described as ‘the picture of the Ladye Elizabeth her grace with a booke in her hande her gowne like crymsen clothe’." (http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/404444/elizabeth-i-when-a-princess)
"This portrait was painted to commemorate the most famous conflict of Elizabeth's reign, the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588. It was originally of the same horizontal format as two other known versions of this painting. Here we can see the scenes behind the Queen showing, on the left, the English fire ships setting out in clear, calm weather and on the right the Spanish fleet being wrecked off the dark, rocky coast of Scotland or Ireland. Elizabeth's hand rests on a globe, her fingers over the Americas, indicating England's dominion of the seas and expansion into the New World." (http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02077/Queen-Elizabeth-I)
Most make up during this era was used in theatrical performances, however soon was adapted into everyday life. The main aim was to replicate the pale face of her majesty, even though it caused many health risks.
The pale complexion was reached by making a cream with powdered white chalk or white lead (it was the lead that was toxic), then mixed with white of egg and vinegar. This created a smooth shiny finish, similar to that of porcelain.
As a child, Elizabeth suffered, yet survived a bout of smallpox, which left her skin scared and uneven, This mixture would fill any imperfections leaving her skin flawless, reasserting her love affair with make up.
Rouge was added to the cheeks using cerise powder, which again was made from white lead but with red colouring added or stains made from crushed fruits and berries, these juice would also be used to tint the lips.
Ironically the lead mixture that Elizabeth used to cover her scares ate away at her skin leaving it more scared for only more ceruse to be applied.
Reference: Beauty and cosmetics 1550-1950. Sarah Jane Downing. page 11-17
http://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house/history/fact-files/beauty-in-the-17th-century
http://www.mylearning.org/the-painted-lady--tudor-portraits-at-the-ferens/p-2281/
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